Lulworth

The Lulworth area lies at the heart of the Jurassic Coast, and is popular with visitors attracted by the remarkable scenery, fine coastal walks and beautiful beaches. For the climber the main pull are the fantastic overhanging faces, juggy traverses and rock arches. The position of the cliffs perched above the sea not only adds atmosphere to the bolted climbing, but also allows great deep-water-soloing, for which the area has become renowned in recent years. On the eastern side of Lulworth Cove itself is another climbing area - the East Cliff, which has some worthwhile sport and trad pitches that usually involve spectacular roof climbing. To the west of Lulworth Cove lies a high ridge of steep pinnacles (Dungy Head) and a huge boulder on the seashore known as Church Rock. These provide a complete contrast in style, with generally easier, pocketed wall climbs that may be an attractive option when the arms can no longer lock-off at Stair Hole, or for those in search of easier grades and some piece-and-quiet. The final area is Durdle Door, with its famous and much-photographed arch, which is home to several sustained pump-outs.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Durdle Door Traverse Durdle Door 1 VS 5a
2
Arcwelder Durdle Door 3 7b
3
Riding to Babylon Durdle Door 3 7a+
4
Sardine Liberation Front Durdle Door 2 6c+
5
They Call Me Tall Man Durdle Door 1 6b
6
Unleash the Veins Durdle Door 2 7b+
7
St. Oswald's Bay to Durdle Door Traverse Durdle Door 1 VS 5a
1
Pickpocket Dungy Head 5a
2
Morris the Carnivore Dungy Head 6a+
3
Beavis and Butthead Dungy Head 6a
4
One-Two, One-Two Dungy Head 1 7a
5
Beers, Steers and Queers Dungy Head 1 6c+
6
Dungeons and Dragons Dungy Head 1 7a+
7
Shoes for my Friends Dungy Head 1 6a+
8
Lost Souls Dungy Head 6a+
9
Looking Through the Infinity Window Dungy Head 2 6c
10
Closing Time Dungy Head 2 7a+
1
The Debt Collector Church Rock 1 6b
2
Wall of Feedback Church Rock 1 6c+
3
Blow Me! Church Rock 1 7a
4
Blow Daddy-O Church Rock 1 E3 5c
5
House Nation Church Rock 2 6c
6
B-Boys Rock Church Rock 1 6b+
7
Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane Church Rock 2 6b
8
Turn It On Church Rock 1 7b
1
The Laws Traverse Stair Hole Traverses 2 E1 6a
2
The Laws Traverse Low Stair Hole Traverses 1 E2 6a
3
Laws Direct Start Stair Hole Traverses 1 E5 6b
4
Trashy's Arete Stair Hole Traverses VS 4c
5
The Brotherhood Stair Hole Traverses 2 E5 6b
6
The Walkin' Dude Stair Hole Traverses E4 5c
7
Skillfish Stair Hole Traverses E3 5b
8
The Maypole Stair Hole Traverses 3 HVS 5b
9
Thieving Gypsy Stair Hole Traverses 1 E5 6b
10
Imp of the Perverse Stair Hole Traverses 2 E6 6b
1
Cheddar Direct Stair Hole - West Cave 1 VS 4c
2
Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin Way Stair Hole - West Cave 1 E2 5c
3
Crazy Notion Stair Hole - West Cave 2 E5 6b
4
Animal Magnetism Stair Hole - West Cave 3 7a+
5
Journey to Eternia Stair Hole - West Cave 2 7c
6
Never Kneel to Skeletor Stair Hole - West Cave 3 7c+
7
Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy Stair Hole - West Cave 2 8a
8
Hurbot the Turbot Stair Hole - West Cave 1 E4 6b
9
Skullthugery Stair Hole - West Cave 3 E6 6b
10
Gates of Greyskull Stair Hole - West Cave 3 7b+
11
Magnetic Gates Stair Hole - West Cave 1 7c
12
Magnetic Skulls Stair Hole - West Cave 2 E6 6b
13
The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water Rats Stair Hole - West Cave 1 E4 6a
14
Hairy Clamber Stair Hole - West Cave 1 VS 4c
1
Route 66 Stair Hole - Inner West Cave 1 E3 5c
2
Escobar Stair Hole - Inner West Cave 1 E4 6b
3
Contortions Stair Hole - Inner West Cave 1 E4 6b
4
El Guapo Stair Hole - Inner West Cave 3 E6 6b
5
El Diablo Suelto Stair Hole - Inner West Cave 2 E6 6c
6
Old Timer's Club Stair Hole - Inner West Cave 2 E5 6b
7
Lower than Whale Shit Stair Hole - Inner West Cave 1 E3 6a
8
Last Season's Loozas Stair Hole - Inner West Cave 2 HVS 5b
1
Captain Bastard Got There First Stair Hole - East Cave 1 E2 5c
2
Despicable Terrier Stair Hole - East Cave 1 E3 6a
3
Anarchy Stampede Stair Hole - East Cave 1 E3 6a
4
Stagedivin' Stair Hole - East Cave 2 7a+
5
I Love Eszter Stair Hole - East Cave 1 E3 5c
6
Window of Opportunity Stair Hole - East Cave 2 E5 6b
7
Hornier Than Thou Stair Hole - East Cave 3 E6 6b
8
Sliding Down the Banister Stair Hole - East Cave 1 E4 6a
9
Does Leviathan Plop Float? Stair Hole - East Cave E1 6a
10
Horny Lil' Devil Stair Hole - East Cave 3 7a
11
Adrenochrome Stair Hole - East Cave 3 8a
12
Lord of Darkness Stair Hole - East Cave 2 7c
13
Mark of the Beast Stair Hole - East Cave 3 7c
14
Burn Hollywood Burn Stair Hole - East Cave 3 8a+
15
Lulworth Arms Treaty Stair Hole - East Cave 2 7b
16
Freed from Desire Stair Hole - East Cave 1 7a+
17
Grimly Fiendish Stair Hole - East Cave 1 7a
18
Omega Stair Hole - East Cave VS 5a
1
Despicable Stampede Linkup Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 1 E3 6a
2
Windowchrome Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 3 E7 6c
3
Pump up the Beast Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 3 E7 6b
4
Horny Beast Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 3 7c
5
Stage Fright Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 1 7b
6
Centre Stage Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 1 7b+
7
Z-Cars Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 1 E6 6b
8
Z Chrome Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 3 E7 6c
9
Imp of the Reverse Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 2 E6 6b
10
The Beast of Lulworth Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 2 7c
11
The Beast Goes East Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 2 7c
12
Taming the Beast Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 1 7c
13
Beast Club Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 2 7c
14
Burning Arms Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 2 7c
15
The Roof Predator Stair Hole - East Cave - Link-ups 3 7c+
1
Plwmp East Cliff 1 S 4a
2
Lesbian Spank Inferno East Cliff E3 6a
3
Recursion East Cliff 1 HVS 5a
4
Ouzo Envy East Cliff 1 VS 4c
5
Evening Slab East Cliff 2 S 4a
6
September Sessions East Cliff 1 VS 4b
7
Lulworth New Order East Cliff 1 VS 4b
8
Cuzco East Cliff 1 E1 5b
9
Ghost of You East Cliff VS 4b
10
Evie East Cliff 1 E2 5b
11
Stalinist Regime East Cliff 1 HVS 5a
12
Southern Stutter East Cliff 1 E1 5a
13
The Poet and the Thief East Cliff 1 VS 4b
14
Mojo-Pin East Cliff 2 VS 5a
15
Mansion Pond East Cliff 2 E2 5b
16
Mankini Biscuit East Cliff 2 E2 5c
17
4 Years, 5 Months and 15 Days and Still Missing You East Cliff 1 E2 5b
18
Fear of Litigation East Cliff 1 E1 5b
19
Extraordinary Rendition East Cliff 1 E1 5c
20
Hyperbole East Cliff 2 HVS 5a
21
MC Hammer East Cliff VS 4c
22
Too Driven East Cliff HS 4a
23
Pussy Galore East Cliff VS 4c
24
Bad to the Bone East Cliff 1 7b+
25
Il Pirata East Cliff 2 7c
26
Jurrasic Coast Pimps East Cliff 2 E1 5b
27
Svengali East Cliff 1 E3 6a
28
Bolt Free East Cliff 1 HVS 5a
29
Carbon Footprint East Cliff HVS 5b
30
The Gift East Cliff 2 HVS 5b
31
Dry Your Eyes Mate East Cliff 1 7c+
32
Jay Kay East Cliff 1 HVS 4c
33
The Lemon Express East Cliff 1 7b
34
Breathe the Pressure East Cliff 2 7b+
35
Ramases Cubed East Cliff 1 7b+
36
Granny Lifts Car East Cliff 2 7b+
37
Let Ya Bones Hang East Cliff 1 7a
38
Rigor Mortise East Cliff 2 7a
39
A Storm in Heaven East Cliff 2 7c
40
Eye of the Storm East Cliff 3 7b+
41
Language of Nature East Cliff 1 7b
42
Weld's Mother East Cliff 4c
43
Monolith Monsters East Cliff 2 7b+
44
Mirrorball East Cliff 2 7c
45
Shining Path East Cliff 1 7a+

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