Castle Naze

An excellent though not very extensive outcrop which can be considered as Wingather's bigger brother, with taller, steeper routes and more climbs in the orange zone. Many of the routes follow steep cracks and grooves and on most the protection is excellent.Castle Naze has seen the attention of climbers for a century or so now. It is not as popular as nearby Windgather, the lack of really easy routes and the fact that fixing belays above the cliff is awkward tends to reduce the number of teams interested in top-roping. Also the style of climbing, often involving steep jamming, requires a bit of technique and gritstone savvy. If you have learnt the basics indoors or at Windgather, a session or two here should hone your technique before moving on to even bigger things.The crag is situated high above the village of Coombs, to the south of Chapel-en-le-Frith. There is parking for 3 cars in a muddy layby on the minor road that runs between Dove Holes and Combs. Walk up the road for 30m and then follow the steep track that slants rightwards up the cliff passing a steep wooden fence (4b?) to the left-hand end of the cliff.


Order Climb Buttress Stars Grade
1
Hodgkinson's Chimney Far Right M
2
South Buttress Far Right Diff
3
V-Chimney Far Right 1 Diff
4
Southern Arete Far Right HS 4b
5
Bubbly Wall Far Right HVS 5a
6
Vanishing Crack Far Right 1 HS 4b
7
The Vice Far Right VD
8
Struggle Far Right HS 4b
9
Boomerang Far Right M
10
Boomerang Buttress Far Right VS 4b
11
Overhanging Chimney Far Right HVD
1
Double Crack The Pinnacle Area 1 Diff
2
The Nithin The Pinnacle Area 1 S 4a
3
Flake Crack The Pinnacle Area HS 4a
4
The Arete The Pinnacle Area 1 HS 4b
5
Easy Corner The Pinnacle Area Diff
6
Easy Crack The Pinnacle Area Diff
7
Right-hand Crack The Pinnacle Area VD
8
Pinnacle Crack The Pinnacle Area VD
9
Pinnacle Arete The Pinnacle Area VD
10
Sheltered Crack The Pinnacle Area 1 VD
11
Bow Crack The Pinnacle Area HVD 3c
12
Slanting Crack The Pinnacle Area HVD 4a
13
Overhanging Chockstone Crack The Pinnacle Area 1 VD
14
The Fifth Horseman The Pinnacle Area HVS 5a
15
V-Corner The Pinnacle Area S 4b
16
Icebreaker The Pinnacle Area E2 5b
17
Thin Cracks The Pinnacle Area VS 5a
18
Muscle Crack The Pinnacle Area S 4a
19
Bloody/Block Cracks The Pinnacle Area S 4a
20
The Nose The Pinnacle Area 1 HS 4b
21
Nursery Arete The Pinnacle Area HVS 5b
1
Main Corner Pilgrim's Progress S 4a
2
The Flywalk Pilgrim's Progress 1 S 4a
3
The Niche Pilgrim's Progress 2 S 4a
4
Niche Arete Pilgrim's Progress 2 VS 5a
5
Orm and Cheep Pilgrim's Progress E1 6a
6
Studio Pilgrim's Progress 2 HS 4b
7
A.P. Chimney Pilgrim's Progress 1 HS 4a
8
Pod Crack Pilgrim's Progress E1 6a
9
Pitoned Crack Pilgrim's Progress HVS 5b
10
Pilgrim's Progress Pilgrim's Progress 2 HS 4b
11
Little Pillar Pilgrim's Progress VS 4b
12
Ledgeway Pilgrim's Progress 1 HVS 5a
13
No Name Pilgrim's Progress S 4b
14
Keep Buttress Pilgrim's Progress HVS 5b
1
Keep Corner Scoop Face 1 S 4a
2
Keep Arete Scoop Face 2 VS 4b
3
Scoop Direct Scoop Face 2 HVS 5a
4
Scoop Face Scoop Face 3 HVS 5a
5
Scoop Face Direct Scoop Face 1 E1 5c
6
Scoop Wall Scoop Face 1 E1 5b
7
Footstool Left Scoop Face S 4a
8
Piano Stool Scoop Face HVS 5b
9
Footstool Right Scoop Face 1 HVD 4a
10
Layback Scoop Face VD
11
Combs Climb Scoop Face 1 S 4a
12
Staircase Scoop Face HVD
13
Come on Eileen Scoop Face E2 5c
1
The Two-step The Crack and Central Tower HVD
2
Fat Man's Chimney The Crack and Central Tower M
3
Plankton The Crack and Central Tower E4 6a
4
Deep Crack The Crack and Central Tower VD
5
Deep Chimney The Crack and Central Tower HVD
6
Birthday Climb The Crack and Central Tower 1 HVS 5b
7
The Crack The Crack and Central Tower 2 VS 4b
8
Nozag The Crack and Central Tower 3 VS 4c
9
Zigzag Crack The Crack and Central Tower 2 HS 4b
10
Zig-a-Zag-a The Crack and Central Tower 1 VD
11
Long Climb The Crack and Central Tower VD
12
Central Tower The Crack and Central Tower 1 VD
13
Atropine The Crack and Central Tower 2 VS 4b
14
Primadonna The Crack and Central Tower E4 6a
15
Belladonna The Crack and Central Tower 2 E2 5c
16
The Ugly Bloke The Crack and Central Tower E3 6a
17
Green Crack The Crack and Central Tower 1 S 4a
18
Morocc'n Roll The Crack and Central Tower E1 5c
19
Syringe Benefit The Crack and Central Tower E1 5c
20
Peg Crack The Crack and Central Tower E1 5c

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