An excellent though not very extensive outcrop which can be considered as Wingather's bigger brother, with taller, steeper routes and more climbs in the orange zone. Many of the routes follow steep cracks and grooves and on most the protection is excellent.Castle Naze has seen the attention of climbers for a century or so now. It is not as popular as nearby Windgather, the lack of really easy routes and the fact that fixing belays above the cliff is awkward tends to reduce the number of teams interested in top-roping. Also the style of climbing, often involving steep jamming, requires a bit of technique and gritstone savvy. If you have learnt the basics indoors or at Windgather, a session or two here should hone your technique before moving on to even bigger things.The crag is situated high above the village of Coombs, to the south of Chapel-en-le-Frith. There is parking for 3 cars in a muddy layby on the minor road that runs between Dove Holes and Combs. Walk up the road for 30m and then follow the steep track that slants rightwards up the cliff passing a steep wooden fence (4b?) to the left-hand end of the cliff.
Order | Climb | Buttress | Stars | Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hodgkinson's Chimney | Far Right | M | |
2 |
South Buttress | Far Right | Diff | |
3 |
V-Chimney | Far Right | 1 | Diff |
4 |
Southern Arete | Far Right | HS 4b | |
5 |
Bubbly Wall | Far Right | HVS 5a | |
6 |
Vanishing Crack | Far Right | 1 | HS 4b |
7 |
The Vice | Far Right | VD | |
8 |
Struggle | Far Right | HS 4b | |
9 |
Boomerang | Far Right | M | |
10 |
Boomerang Buttress | Far Right | VS 4b | |
11 |
Overhanging Chimney | Far Right | HVD | |
1 |
Double Crack | The Pinnacle Area | 1 | Diff |
2 |
The Nithin | The Pinnacle Area | 1 | S 4a |
3 |
Flake Crack | The Pinnacle Area | HS 4a | |
4 |
The Arete | The Pinnacle Area | 1 | HS 4b |
5 |
Easy Corner | The Pinnacle Area | Diff | |
6 |
Easy Crack | The Pinnacle Area | Diff | |
7 |
Right-hand Crack | The Pinnacle Area | VD | |
8 |
Pinnacle Crack | The Pinnacle Area | VD | |
9 |
Pinnacle Arete | The Pinnacle Area | VD | |
10 |
Sheltered Crack | The Pinnacle Area | 1 | VD |
11 |
Bow Crack | The Pinnacle Area | HVD 3c | |
12 |
Slanting Crack | The Pinnacle Area | HVD 4a | |
13 |
Overhanging Chockstone Crack | The Pinnacle Area | 1 | VD |
14 |
The Fifth Horseman | The Pinnacle Area | HVS 5a | |
15 |
V-Corner | The Pinnacle Area | S 4b | |
16 |
Icebreaker | The Pinnacle Area | E2 5b | |
17 |
Thin Cracks | The Pinnacle Area | VS 5a | |
18 |
Muscle Crack | The Pinnacle Area | S 4a | |
19 |
Bloody/Block Cracks | The Pinnacle Area | S 4a | |
20 |
The Nose | The Pinnacle Area | 1 | HS 4b |
21 |
Nursery Arete | The Pinnacle Area | HVS 5b | |
1 |
Main Corner | Pilgrim's Progress | S 4a | |
2 |
The Flywalk | Pilgrim's Progress | 1 | S 4a |
3 |
The Niche | Pilgrim's Progress | 2 | S 4a |
4 |
Niche Arete | Pilgrim's Progress | 2 | VS 5a |
5 |
Orm and Cheep | Pilgrim's Progress | E1 6a | |
6 |
Studio | Pilgrim's Progress | 2 | HS 4b |
7 |
A.P. Chimney | Pilgrim's Progress | 1 | HS 4a |
8 |
Pod Crack | Pilgrim's Progress | E1 6a | |
9 |
Pitoned Crack | Pilgrim's Progress | HVS 5b | |
10 |
Pilgrim's Progress | Pilgrim's Progress | 2 | HS 4b |
11 |
Little Pillar | Pilgrim's Progress | VS 4b | |
12 |
Ledgeway | Pilgrim's Progress | 1 | HVS 5a |
13 |
No Name | Pilgrim's Progress | S 4b | |
14 |
Keep Buttress | Pilgrim's Progress | HVS 5b | |
1 |
Keep Corner | Scoop Face | 1 | S 4a |
2 |
Keep Arete | Scoop Face | 2 | VS 4b |
3 |
Scoop Direct | Scoop Face | 2 | HVS 5a |
4 |
Scoop Face | Scoop Face | 3 | HVS 5a |
5 |
Scoop Face Direct | Scoop Face | 1 | E1 5c |
6 |
Scoop Wall | Scoop Face | 1 | E1 5b |
7 |
Footstool Left | Scoop Face | S 4a | |
8 |
Piano Stool | Scoop Face | HVS 5b | |
9 |
Footstool Right | Scoop Face | 1 | HVD 4a |
10 |
Layback | Scoop Face | VD | |
11 |
Combs Climb | Scoop Face | 1 | S 4a |
12 |
Staircase | Scoop Face | HVD | |
13 |
Come on Eileen | Scoop Face | E2 5c | |
1 |
The Two-step | The Crack and Central Tower | HVD | |
2 |
Fat Man's Chimney | The Crack and Central Tower | M | |
3 |
Plankton | The Crack and Central Tower | E4 6a | |
4 |
Deep Crack | The Crack and Central Tower | VD | |
5 |
Deep Chimney | The Crack and Central Tower | HVD | |
6 |
Birthday Climb | The Crack and Central Tower | 1 | HVS 5b |
7 |
The Crack | The Crack and Central Tower | 2 | VS 4b |
8 |
Nozag | The Crack and Central Tower | 3 | VS 4c |
9 |
Zigzag Crack | The Crack and Central Tower | 2 | HS 4b |
10 |
Zig-a-Zag-a | The Crack and Central Tower | 1 | VD |
11 |
Long Climb | The Crack and Central Tower | VD | |
12 |
Central Tower | The Crack and Central Tower | 1 | VD |
13 |
Atropine | The Crack and Central Tower | 2 | VS 4b |
14 |
Primadonna | The Crack and Central Tower | E4 6a | |
15 |
Belladonna | The Crack and Central Tower | 2 | E2 5c |
16 |
The Ugly Bloke | The Crack and Central Tower | E3 6a | |
17 |
Green Crack | The Crack and Central Tower | 1 | S 4a |
18 |
Morocc'n Roll | The Crack and Central Tower | E1 5c | |
19 |
Syringe Benefit | The Crack and Central Tower | E1 5c | |
20 |
Peg Crack | The Crack and Central Tower | E1 5c |
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