Sas Ciampac

The impressive and sunny south face of Sas Ciampac is a familiar sight to anyone descending the Gardena Pass towards Corvara. Situated just west of the elegant Sassongher, and rising out of beautiful flower meadows, the location is idyllic. The rock is also no let down, offering excellent slab climbing up the ramps that define the face. It is strange then that this face receives so little climbing attention. Maybe a lack of fixed pegs and rumours of difficult route finding on the classic Adang/Old South Face have kept the crowds away? Whatever the reason, it means the excellent routes found here can be enjoyed in relative solitude. Perched high on the cliff face, the views are superb and even the descent, which is wonderfully straightforward, crosses through some impressive scenery. Park at the top of the pass (paid) or in one of the hairpins down on either side (free). Walk down the road in the direction of Corvara for 20m before taking path 8 off to the left. Follow path 8 for 30 minutes until you get to a clearing with a wooden hut on your right. The face is now clearly visible on your left. Shortly after, path 8b turns off right, stay on path 8 for another 100m past the junction, until a small climbers' path turns off left. Follow the path which is marked with sporadic cairns steeply uphill for 20 minutes to the base of the face.


Buttress Order Climb Grade Stars

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