Il Gobbo and Torre Leo

To the southwest of Rifugio Fonda Savio stands a curious trio of small but elegant towers. Despite its modest height the dramatically named Torre del Diavolo at the centre proved a tricky devil and repelled a host of would be first ascensionists. Baronesses Ilona and Rolanda von Eötvös with their three guides, Antonio Dimai, Giovanni Siorpaës and Angelo Verzi, finally made the summit in 1903 - with the help of a little trickery! Their method involved lassoing the summit from the neighbouring tower of Il Gobbo and then making a Tyrolean traverse across the gap. The first truly free ascent did not come until a decade later in 1913 when the master Hans Dülfer succeeded in making a devishly long step, bridging the gap between Torre Leo and Torre del Diavolo, which he then climbed via the south face. The route is now a classic and will appeal to those fiendish personalities searching for something a bit unusual. The neighbouring tower of Il Gobbo is also recommended, boasting one of the best easy routes in the area. The Normal Route demands a wide variety of climbing styles over its modest length and is superb.


Buttress Order Climb Grade Stars

Copyright © Rockfax

Home - Privacy Policy - Terms and Conditions